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The
following is an excerpt from the book "Understanding The Connections
between Black and Aboriginal Peoples"
Bolivia
| ....The
landscape of the Yungas is immense and spectacular. A typical scene
is one in which a waterfall gushes from steep mountains shrouded
in mist. The power of the landscape is felt immediately. The further
one descends into the valleys of the Yungas the more tropical the
vegetation becomes, one can see the mangoes and the green terraced
fields on which coca is grown. |
....When
I first visited Bolivia in 1992, I was shown a postcard with a
picture of the people of the Yungas. Superficially, the photo
looked like that of a black woman dressed in the clothing typically
worn by many Quechua Indian woman today. Many present day Quechua
women wear clothing that were imposed on them by the Spanish conquistadors.
This typically consists of voluminous skirts with bowler-type
hats worn with their hair in two large plaits tied together at
the back.
....Looking
at that photograph, I realized the possibility of there being
a Blakk Indian community in Bolivia. After further inquiry I was
told that these women were the descendants of African slaves that
the Spanish had brought to work the silver mines and plantations
in Bolivia. When the slaves had obtained their freedom, many chose
to live in the subtropical region of the Yungas where they intermarried
with the indigenous people of the area.
....As
I journeyed into this region I kept looking for signs of Blakk
Indians. Occasionally as the bus drove along I would sight a few
black faces far off in the distance, but no sign of a Black Indian
community. After five hours of traveling, the bus stopped in a
small village. A friend had told me about a town in the Yungas
that they thought would be important in terms of my finding a
Blakk Indian community. As it got darker, I walked to one of the
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stands and inquired if there were buses heading to this town. The
person at the stand immediately pointed to a huge open truck, filled
with people carrying their various goods. It was in the process
of pulling out so I made a quick decision to jump on board. I had
to scramble down a hill and grab onto the truck's railing until
I was safe on a sideboard. From there I had a clear view of the
truck's interior. It was crammed with people, crates of produce,
animals and furniture. I spied a small, empty space on the floorboard
where I thought I would be able to stand. I took aim and jumped
from the top of the truck, managing to land perfectly between the
two crates. My efforts were awarded with applause from the passengers.
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....Soon
the truck was hurtling along. Occasionally we had to duck to avoid
being hurt by the tall trees that lined the road. Suddenly there
was a flurry of rain and hail. All the passengers had to work together
to cover the back of the truck with tarpaulin. This proved to be
a source of excitement and laughter as the people skidded around
the wet bus trying to fix the tarpaulin on to keep their goods and
produce dry. While the majority of passengers on the truck were
Quechua Indian people there were a group of five Blakk Indian women.
Their features astounded me because they reminded me so much of
people I had seen on previous trips to Africa.
....
After
an hour and a half of traveling, we arrived in a small town. I was
greeted by a number of young Blakk Indian children peering at me
from a hillside and pointing at my dreadlocks. As I walked along
the town's dirt road I could also see Quechua Indian women some
of whom had babies slung over their shoulders in blankets.
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... I had originally planned to return to La Paz later that night, but my plans changed when I found out that there were no other buses leaving until six AM the next morning. There were also no hotels in the town since this was not an area open to tourists. The bus driver suggested that I sleep in the back of the bus until he was ready to leave the next morning but I decided to keep walking to check out the rest of the town.
It was situated on the edge of a mountaintop with breathtaking views
of coca fields and the surrounding mountains.
....
The main road was lined with small houses and an occasional shop.
Very soon I was surrounded by two Blakk Indian women and at least
a dozen children all of whom were curious about my dreadlocks. This
group of people struck me. They had an incredible variety of facial
features and were all different shades of brown and black. I had
never seen a people who looked quite like this. The two women confirmed
that indeed many of the families were Blakk Indian. They also pointed
out a house further down the road where I might sleep. |
| ....A
Blakk Indian couple owned the house. It was a very simple dwelling
with an extra cot on the upper level and a front section out of
which produce was sold. I noticed there was a calendar in the house,
which had "COCA IS NOT COCAINE", printed in big bold letters.
One of the owners informed me that he was a coca farmer and wanted
to know what information I had about coca. I explained that I understood
coca to have many medicinal properties, that it was good for asthma,
arthritis, and stomach problems but most people believed in the
myth that it was the same as cocaine. Reassured by my attitude,
the man invited me to sit down at their table for tea and some conversation.
Beside our table there
was a gigantic crocus bag filled with at least forty pounds of coca
leaf. The couple took a handful of leaves from the bag and placed
them in a pot of hot water. They let the leaves seep for a while
to make a refreshing pot of coca tea. We sat a while drinking coca
tea and chatting. |
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....Certainly
it was clear to me that one of the most important things that forcibly
transplanted Africans learned, from the aboriginal people in Bolivia
was how to cultivate and utilize coca.
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....While
we were talking I was asked if I had ever heard saya music. He told
me that he had a live recording by a friend of his, a well know
saya musician. He got the cassette from his bedroom and played it
for me. He explained that saya music was a form of Blakk Indian
music that had originated in the Yungas. It utilizes a combination
of Andean instrumentation with African percussion. The percussive
elements reminded me of music that I had heard in Cuba and Haiti,
but there were also musical elements present which are unique to
the aboriginal people of Bolivia. He explained that the performer
Daniel Barra was presently performing in another region of Bolivia
but he thought it would be good for me to speak with him. As I left
the village at six AM that morning, I decided I would return in
the future to meet with Daniel Barra. |
....It
took me a year and a half, but I did make it back to the Yungas.
On my return journey I had a direct brush with the legendary avalanches
that have acted as a deterrent to many travelers. The dangerously
narrow and precipitous roads of the Yungas are often marked with
crosses decorated with flowers that commemorate motorists who have
careened off the narrow roads into the treacherous ravines of the
Yungas.
....Halfway
through the journey, the bus I was traveling on stopped. Ahead of
us I could see that two other buses had stopped with the majority
of their passengers standing on the roadside staring and pointing
to the mountains above. The reason for their attention soon became
obvious. Giant boulders were plunging off the mountain and bouncing
off the road ahead. It was explained to me that because of melting
snow on top of the mountain, avalanches were occurring.
....For
about an hour and a half everybody stood around watching as giant
boulders intermittently crashed down from the side of the mountain.
All of a sudden without any warning the drivers of all the buses
including the one I was traveling on gunned their engines and raced
through the dangerous section of the road. Apparently they were
accustomed to this and didn't want to be thrown too much off their
schedule. There were about thirty passengers who, like myself, were
still standing on the roadside when the buses took off. We now had
to run for about two hundred yards through this dangerous section
of the road to rejoin our buses. We ran as quickly as possible,
trying to keep as close to the mountain side as we could. Luckily
for us only a couple of smaller boulders bounced harmlessly over
our heads and we were able to safely make it to where our buses
were waiting for us. Afterwards the very relieved passengers worked
off the nervous tension with numerous jokes and anecdotes about
our run through the avalanche. Thankfully, our journey continued
without any incident.
....I
arrived at my destination in the late afternoon and was immediately
greeted by several residents of the town who walked with me until
I got to the small house on the hillside where Daniel Barra lived.
In his early forties, Daniel was very happy to show me the instruments
that he and his family used to perform saya. He brought out a range
of percussive instruments: gourds, drums, shakers and rattles that
were attached to the performer's ankles when they danced. The primary
instrument were drums made from designs passed on from their African
slave ancestors. There were also various instruments that were used
by Quechua Indian people. Daniel explained to me that at saya's
base were the rhythms that their African ancestors played when they
were slaves in Bolivia. They then incorporated instrumentation that
they learnt from Quechua Indian people living in Bolivia.
....Now
in the Yungas they were making an effort to maintain their African
culture by having African cultural classes for the young people.
He introduced to me one of his young relatives who was one of the
lead vocalists in his group. Although only six years old, she already
knew many of the traditional saya songs and dance movements, all
of which had their origins in the dances African slaves used to
perform. Relaxed and with great self-confidence, she started singing
and dancing, accompanied on percussion by her uncle. A crowd of
people from the community gathered around to listen to her. Afterwards,
it was touching to see that the young children who were present
were so appreciative and protective of their young, talented friend.
Her performance made the long journey all that more worthwhile and
I left the town realizing that I had been graced with a rare insight
into saya, a very unique form of Blakk Indian music. |
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